We set out a little late, but the journey didn’t take long. Two hours and we were there. I ended up driving the precariously unstable and over-loaded jeep because Sean and Shner had whisky for breakfast.
Beaufort, the site of this year’s Rainbow Serpent, is a sleepy sleepy sleepy town north-west of Ballarat. On this particular morning, however, the amount of energy passing through, lining the sidewalks and spilling over onto the road, filling the bakeries and supermarkets and liquor stores, is enough to keep the locals laughing in their rocking chairs for a few more Australia Days.
On my way to buy gum I hear “gawd.. theresum funny lookin people ere, isn’t tha-riyt bob? I don’t think theys brush their hair, doesn’t lookliyk’it, isn’t tha-riyt?
The locals have come out to watch. Truth be told, so have I.
It was late afternoon when we got to the car park. Unloading three cars jammed to the windows with people and camping gear and torn supermarket bags, we waded through the dust storm kicked up by thousands of rusty cars and painted vans and wildy colorful buses that look like they were abandoned 15 years ago, and probably were, but are now transporting de facto families of skirt-wearing men, endlessly layered women, and impossible to scare children across unmarked terrains in their borderless worlds.
Our scouts Dotan and Shner found a perfect camping spot, insulated from the wind by trees and a ditch, but flat enough for six tents in a circular formation, with chairs, tables and eskies in the middle. We were on the border of an open field that for the next three days would be used for kite running and spinning frisbees; a field full of outstretched hands. Through this field we walked to get to the water tank, to the eco-friendly waterless bathrooms (they make our communal excrement into compost and reuse it in the fields) and to the Market Stage where DJs played without pause for four days and nights.
I’ll get this out of the way. I was expecting better music. The trance was often heavy, industrial, repetitive, going nowhere. I had come for progressive, psychedelic, a journey through fairytales and science fiction. And I did get it sporadically, as I was always within earshot of one stage or another.
Then we crawled into billowing tents and slept for a few hours, each in our own time. Knowing that before sunrise we would all somehow meet again on the dancefloor, making the trip for the 30th time across that field, to the stage, left side speakers, see you there, whenever.
When we left on Monday afternoon, the music was getting good again, the stage was full again, people were high again. I considered staying. I wasn’t ready to leave. But one more night like that, I thought, and I might end up buying a long-abandoned bus, painting it with my fingers, installing decks and a cooker, and picking up every hitchhiker I see as I transport my hopes and my hunger across endless unmarked terrains, my husband wearing a skirt, my child eating dirt, and me at the wheel looking forever out into the distance of my new borderless world.



